India 2007

Leaders: Caroline Christie, Brian Pascoe, Heather Bowie, Tom Gough.

Members: Harriet Robinson, Joanna Greensit, Lisa Shaw, Eleanor Ockenden, Anna Gray, James Hockey, Farah Vohra, Ambreen Khan, Mouri Islam, Ben Frudd, Dharmesh Mistry.

Dates: 22 July – 22 August

The 2007 India expedition left on 21 July for Delhi via Helsinki, this was to be the first time we had even heard of, let alone flown by, Finnair! However, pleasant staff and good meals, they even remembered that we had 6 vegetarians. We arrived in Delhi at midnight local time,

The India Expedition

All was well, kit and baggage all arrived safely. Sadly our in country guide had got the times wrong and so was not there to meet us. However a phone call or two soon sorted out the problems and we were whisked off to the city. Normally we would by-pass Delhi going to the expedition as the shock is quite severe, sadly the flight times meant that we could not meet the bus and would have to spend the night and the next day until 6.00 pm there. Conditions in Delhi the following day were exhausting, 40 ºC and 100 % humidity none-the-less the group put on a brave face and we had a look around before getting on our bus, a sleeper bus with bunk beds in it!

18 hours later we arrived in Manali, cooler, quieter and much more relaxed. The group however was exhilarated but exhausted so we quickly moved to our community project at the Burua Village School. This school has been the recipient of many BEG expeditions and over the years many members have enjoyed teaching there and building the school into its current condition. This year we were to begin the process of raising the 3rd floor and supports for the roof that will be put in place next year. The building process would take place on the 3rd floor and meant that all building material would have to be man-packed up three flights of stairs to the current roof. Over the next 8 days, as well as feeding ourselves, attending local cultural events (the nine headed house gods visit!), watching the girls dress up in local Kullui costume and many other events the group managed to transport some 20 tonnes of sand and concrete by hand up to the roof of the building, even the local builders were seriously impressed by our efforts. Not only this but water had to be moved to mix the cement as well and anyone who owns a tent will know that moving 300 gallons of water in a bucket is no easy task! Moreover, whilst this was happening, other group members were mixing cement and pouring it into moulds that contained the reinforcing steel would had also moved, all this at 3000 m! All in all it was a tremendous effort and one which we can all be very, very proud of.

Having discussed our menu with local know-hows our buyers were despatched and duly returned with great quantities of grub all of which was loaded onto the trucks, with the animal feed, tents, cookers, equipment etc. for a 16 day self-supported trek through the Zanskar. The only thing that was forgotten was……..us!

From Manali to our trek starting point was about 9 hours of rough driving over some of the highest roads in the world. Up, down, along and over before finally we went over the Barralacha Pass to our first camp. Here we spent 2 nights to acclimatise and cross the goods onto the horses for the trek. The first night went well with only minor sickness displaying itself. The next few days saw us travel through a long and winding alpine desert to the base of Photse La, the 5300 m pass into the Zanskar Valley. Here we were destined to be snowed in for a day. But, it gave us time to clean up, wash and for the duty crew to cook ‘chips and cauliflower cheese’ can you believe that? Photse La was a hard push and saw 2 members on horse back to the top, not through altitude but sheer exhaustion, both were valiantly escorted by Heather Bowie who walked (ran) alongside to keep an eye on things. However, we all made the top and the photographs duly flowed before an exhausting 6 hour down hill phase which took us into our next camp. The next day saw us into the Zanskar Valley floor to our base at Jal (Yal) where we were to stay for 2 nights with a trip to the Phuktal Gompa. Sadly the next day a number of the group were unable to make the trek, tiredness and blisters seeing them off and so only 8 made it to the gompa where we had noodles and tea in the company of the monks, a great day.

From there we travelled to Kargiak our next camp site where there was a rest day. The group relaxed had their haired dyed (henna is such a lovely colour!) and cleaning up we set off for the rest of the trek. Brian, a horse and rider, a horseman and one other set off to make the journey to the next camp as quickly as possible with an unwell member; they did this in 3 hours as the others took 6! Unfortunately, some of the remaining group had split off and gone over the wrong bridge with Caroline our leader! This meant that on reaching the base camp for Shingo La they had to cross a river. And so, anchored with climbing ropes and karabiners they crossed the river, wet and safe!

The next day required the group to cross the Shingo La some 4950 m, normally a tough trek that starts straight up, followed by a long down hill stretch for 7 hours making it 9 – 10 hours in all. Due to concern for the patient it was decided that Brian would repeat the previous days efforts and skip over the top, the patient support team did the whole lot in 5.5 hours and even put the tents up for the rest of the group before they arrived – a fantastic effort.

From there it was back to the final camp and then a 7 hour drive back to Manali for a rest, shower and clean clothes, dinner and a good nights rest…………..in a bed! The next day was on the bus, down to Delhi overnight, drop off the bags at the hotel, morning train to Agra, swim in the pool, dinner and sleep. Next day up at the crack of sparrows for the dawn ceremony at the Taj Mahal, followed by a trip around the Fort before another swim and a late evening train journey, first class, back to Delhi, pheww!

Delhi was then seen on a bus trip around the city where we discovered that Gandhi’s tomb does not open on a Sunday, never mind, onto Pundit Nehru’s place, tally ho! A good day was had by all. Our final day was spent in two ways, the team leaders had a ton of paperwork to complete and so went for breakfast and left the others to do their shopping, we would all meet for dinner before going to the airport, which we did. No-one got lost, all had the presents and we finally came home.

Overall the expedition more than met with the demands and expectations of those who supported it.