Corsica GR20

Europe's Ultimate Trek

Aim – Complete the GR20 trek, allegedly Europe’s most challenging walk, along the spine of Corsica.

The trip started in London, where most of the group met at a hostel close to King’s Cross the night before the train journey was due to start.  Introductions were made, a group meal enjoyed and group kit distributed.

Next morning, with somewhat incongruously large rucksacks for the morning commuter crowd, we made our way to St Pancras for the Eurostar.  Meeting up with Chris and Liz we were quickly aboard the train and whizzing through the English, then French, countryside.

The journey passed smoothly and enjoyably, with a comfy overnight ferry from Marseille to Ille Rousse, and bus onto the start of the GR 20 at Calenzana.

The trip started in earnest after the short pre-dawn walk through Calenzana to the beginning of the trail.  The first day is a relentless climb – over 1500m – into the mountains, through the fragrant scrub that covers the island, known as the Maquis.  The team took it steady, and broke the back of the climbing in the cool of the morning, with the route getting more interesting as we scrambled across the hill side to the final Col before the first refuge.  Finally the refuge came into view, but as would soon become familiar, it was deceptively far away.  Eventually we arrived and settled into the bivouac site, cooked ourselves a meal and had cold showers.  Then off to sleep, below the stars for many of us, choosing to forgo the tents in the warmth of the night.

The pattern was set then for the trip:  Up early for breakfast and away before the sun came up,  trying to do the bulk of the climbing in the cool of the morning, before a leisurely lunch, and finishing the final miles to the refuges in the afternoon sun.  The days started to blur together.  But they were always enjoyable, if hard work for most of us.

They say the first few days are the hardest (though some of the later ones felt pretty difficult too!) and always spectacular.  Memories from the early days were the first proper views of the mountains from the Col de Piccaia  – the whole group going ‘wow’ as the breathtaking view unfolded before us; crossing the suspension bridge before the Spasimata Slabs and the monstrous knee busting descent to our first rest at d’Asco Stagnu.

Here some of the group relaxed for a rest day at the ski station, enjoying good food, swimming and restocking supplies.  The rest of us couldn’t resist the lure of Monte Cinto. Corsica’s highest mountain at 2706m, and its some 1500m climbing from the ski station.  The ascent was hard but enjoyable, with a bit of light relief being provided by mad Dutch people in sandals and some impromptu skiing on the last remaining winter snow patches.

Refreshed (or not!) the team set out the following day for the crux of the GR20, the long scramble down into the cirque of solitude, then up out of the other side.  The traditional early start soon saw us staring down into the cirque, and preparing for its rigours.  Before long we were dropping steadily down, using the chains fixed to the rock for assistance, slowly but surely covering the ground.  It took a little longer than anticipated, and we had lunch at the bottom of the Cirque.  The ascent out was easier, with less scrambling and soon the group were on the final Col of the day looking down at the Tighjettu hut and Bergeries de Ballone.  Yet another knee jarring descent soon saw us at the Tighjettu hut, where it was tempting to stay, but we pressed on to the Bergeries de Ballone, in a pleasant wooded clearing.  A quick swim in the nearby stream, and tea, and we were all ready for bed.

Over the next couple of days we passed through Castel de Verghio, (bizarrely stumbling on a rave at a remote Bergerie), past crystal clear lakes, through pine forests, along ridges and over cols.  The walking was easier than the previous days, but always felt hard.  Soon we were dropping down into Vizzavona, but not before a bit more swimming in refreshing and deep pools.

Vizzavona, the nominal half way point of the GR 20, was our second rest stop, this time for all the party.  The leaders Chris and Liz got to celebrate their wedding anniversary in luxury and we all headed off to Corte on the train to get some supplies and have a wander round the old capital of Corsica.

All too soon we were back on the GR20.  A die hard contingent of lads avoided the short cut from the Gite d’Etape but this easy day eased us back into the routine of walking.  The mountains were getting lower, but no less spectacular.  At times we could see the East and West coasts of the island from the spine of mountains.

We crossed the road at Col de Verde and set out in the baking afternoon sun for the refuge at Refuge de Prati.  What seemed like an endless time we arrived at the refuge, with its pleasant meadows for the campers.  We were treated to an amazing sunset – another stunning campsite.

The next days were a sting in the tail for the route.  The days were long and the amount of ascent still demanding.  Mountain ridges were scaled, peaks climbed and more knee jarring descents endured, but soon we were at the penultimate refuge, Refuge d'Asinao..

The next section to the Bavella pass looked easy on the map.  Most of it downhill it seemed, but it went on, and on, and on, and on…  but eventually we all emerged onto the tourist riddled road at Col de Bavella.  As we were rather dusty and frazzled, we decided that a pizza lunch was in order to prepare us for the ascent to the last campsite at Paliri.

Walking up looking back at the granite spires of Bavella, the end of the trip didn’t really seem in sight, real.  It was hard, but we’d miss doing it when it was over!  The final campsite was spectacularly situated on small plain amongst the strange granite rocks and peaks.  A spot of impromptu bouldering was indulged in and beers bought from the Bergere that appeared to be the last strong hold of Corsican nationalism.  The huge mural of balaclava clad gunman was the clue to their top secret hide-away.

Time for the last day.  Purported to be mostly downhill, so where did all these up hills come from?  A swim at lunch was fun as the temperature increased the lower we got.  We were struggling up the last slope, when suddenly Conca came into view over the Col.  It looked so close, and all down hill too. So off we set, all together for this last leg.  We’d been promised a chime every 15 minutes from the church clock, but heard nothing.  Then, suddenly, we’d finished.  We were on the road, and there was the GR 20 sign.  A little confusion, more than a little anticlimax whilst pictures were arranged for all.  The GR 20 was complete.

After the deceptively long trudge to the campsite some R&R was enjoyed.  Hot showers, a good meal and some drinks to celebrate.  The next day we were on the beach for some more R&R, food (much better service) and drink.

On the last day we wended our way reluctantly to Porto Vecchio.  Unfortunately the group was split as we couldn’t all fit on the bus, but we regrouped in time to get the ferry.  Again, too soon, we were back in London.  Amongst the commuters with our packs, smiling, smug in the knowledge that we’d spent the last 3 weeks in glorious sunshine enjoying laugher and friendship. And we’d done the GR20.

George Ormerod, Leader